Monitor progress

- Posted in Computer by

Things are coming along nicely with my monitoring project:
enter image description here
One can already find there:

  • Minimal Banana Pi monitoring infos (top-screen block),
  • Netatmo infos collected via API call ('HOUSE' mid-screen block),
  • Future place holder for Aquariums data ('AQUARIUMS' bottom-screen block). Currently fake data is displayed, ain't ordered the Profilux yet :)

Next steps :

  1. Upload data to this very server, in order to provide a Web public display,
  2. Get a bigger screen for my Banana PI, my current 4 inches is way too small for me :)
  3. Begin the Profilux adventure.


What?
Aquarium plural is Aquaria?
Sorry, that hurts my french ears too hard, so I'll stick to the Aquariums form.

What bis?
Why a console version, no nice graphics?
Yep, my Banana Pi's a small thing, I wan to keep it w/o a graphical desktop environment.
And I do like its root look&feel this way :)

News will follow when I have new things to show. See ya.

Banana's back

- Posted in Computer by

A few years ago I bought a Banana Pi.
Never heard of it? It's a Raspberry Pi clone, but with at least one killer feature: a SATA interface. So, no more SD card ever lasting i/o, welcome to the SSD performances. Not that I need those performances, but I've always been worried about the lifespan of an SD card used as an OS storage.
I never went that far using my Banana Pi, mainly because the official distributions were unfriendly and outdated. But when I discovered Armbian, all those problems vanished. Armbian is an up to date robust and well documented 'Minimal Debian based Linux with powerful configurator and software installer'. And it's true :)
I'm thinking about automating the temperature and pH monitoring of my aquariums, with appliances like GHL ProfiLux 4 aquarium controller. This little but expensive jewel comes with an embedded web server. I would like to publish on this web site the result of this monitoring, but not only, I'd also like to add things like in house temperature and pressure, in order to have a complete view.
Having no ProfiLux yet (still saving €), I started playing with what I already have: my Banana Pi and in house data from my Netatmo weather station. This device has a public API and I found scripting the retrieving of my data quite simple.
So in a matter of hours, I managed to install Armbian on my Banana Pi, read Netatmo's API and write a small Tcl script that collects my data on demand.

Actually I'm quite happy with the result: enter image description here
Next step? Put the results in a database (yes, I know, I wanted a flat CMS to avoid databases, just to find myself needing one a few weeks later), and periodically send them to this public server. Yes, my Banana Pi will remain local only, the world is not ready yet for it :)
And later, build and publish a complete monitoring page with the Netatmo and the aquarium data. No roadmap ;)

Ps: Yes, I know, Tcl is not very trendy. I'm too old for Ruby/Python. A good friend of mine used to say: Tradition is a good thing, though in this particular case I would say One can be sexy without being trendy.

Automatic water change

- Posted in Cichlids by

For a Cichlids aquarium, one should change at least half of the water every month, because those fish do not tolerate nitrites at all. Have you ever lugged 500 liters of dirty water in a bucket and then 500 liters of clean water, without getting sciatica and without wetting the entire floor of the house? To change the water manually, you must really love your fish ... or have a small aquarium. However, Cichlids hate nitrite-laden water as much as they love large aquariums.
The solution? Automate the water change with a drip system. Not only is it autonomous (no more buckets, pipes and floods), but the change is continuous and smooth, which does not cause an abrupt change in the water composition. The only condition is to have a drinking water inlet and a waste water outlet close to the aquarium.

Phase 1, the easiest, bring clean water to the aquarium.
To avoid putting chlorinated water in the aquarium, one should let it rest for a few hours so that the chlorine evaporates, and moreover it allows the water to to reach room temperature. For this, I use ... a toilet flush placed above the surface of the aquarium so that gravity works for me. Yes, it's not very sexy, it's of course to hide in a nearby room, but it works very well and it's a reliable and cheap device. From the flush comes a hose that brings the water into the aquarium (a hose used for air pumps is perfect, cheap, flexible, transparent). Then we control the water flow with an air valve, yes the same one used for air pumps. A drop of water being about 0.05ml, and knowing the volume of water to change in a month, I won't insult you by explaining the rule of three, we then adjust the air valve (that became a water valve, life is change) to set the desired number of drops per minute. For example, in my case with a flow rate of 200 drops per minute I change about 430 liters per month. Without water on the floor or back pain.

Phase 2, we now have to evacuate the excess water otherwise we will have a little problem...
Here the idea is to put next to the aquarium an expansion vase that will evacuate the overflow, and that's where it's magic, without piercing the glass of the aquarium :)
A drawing being better than a big speech, here's the principle:
enter image description here
For this expansion tank I used pieces of PVC pipes, the ones sold for water drains. Do not forget to be able to adjust the vertical position of the expansion tank to adjust the water level in the aquarium. Under the expansion tank a pipe brings the dirty water to your waste water outlet (or to your plants, did you say aquaponics?).

Now you can enjoy two magical effects: the water is changed automatically, and from time to time (preferably when you have guests at the table), everyone hears the sound of a flushing water tank filling up when no one is at the toilet, effect 100% guaranteed.

My system has no more secrets for you, it's up to you now.
(and yes, my diagram is not very sexy, but it's been drawn with love™)

How to get and keep a basic pH

- Posted in Cichlids by

So, first post about my passion for aquarium fish. I talk about it much more to please myself than to try to share any science, Youtube is full of geniuses in all fields, Cichlids of the great African lakes included. You are warned :)

Well, just to disgust 99% of people, let's start talking about aquarium science by talking about pH. Why talk about chemistry instead of just talking about fish? Because the fish I chose come from Lake Tanganyika, which has a very particular pH, because it is very basic. If you remember your chemistry classes, the pH varies between 0 (very acidic), 7 (neutral) and 14 (very basic). Moreover, this pH is not linear (that would be too easy): for example, if you go from 7 to 8 the pH is 10 times more basic. Basically in freshwater aquariums, there are two extremes: the Amazon area whose water is quite acidic (<7) and the African great lakes whose water is strongly basic (>8).

So how can I get water with a pH around 8.5 when when the one coming out of my tap it is at 7? Two solutions:

  • Add baking soda (30 grams per 100 liters) but water changes will modify this proportion so one must constantly reintroduce some of it, not practical.
  • Put limestone rocks and substrate that will slowly dissolve and raise the pH to the desired value. Advantage ? Slower process (therefore not violent for fish that don't like sudden changes) and above all almost insensitive to continuous water changes since the dissolution is slow and constant.

I chose the second solution for its obvious advantages by placing in my tank a substrate dedicated to this type of biotope: sand from the Dolomites (it's white, that's what I wanted) and some limestone rocks (they are found in profusion everywhere, mine come from Provence). With these two ingredients my pH has gently increased (in three months) from 7 to 8.6 and stabilized itself: enter image description here Cool, that's exactly what I wanted in in speed of variation, stability and of course value (the pH of Tanganyika is 9 on the surface according to the literature, which I have to trust. Yes, unfortunately I couldn't measure it myself, I only got within 500km of this lake and at that blessed time I didn't even know the pH existed. But I'm getting lost).

But how do you measure this pH? It's a bit more complex than measuring temperature :) In the beginning, I bet it all on the JBL ProScan. Sexy (with the results on my smartphone), fast (2 minutes), it had everything to please. Yes but ... it's not reliable. The values are very fluctuating: two tests done in a row can give pH variations between 7.5 and 8.5 (remember, a pH unit is a factor of 10 on acidity). Conclusion, I don't use it anymore. So I bought an electronic Ph-meter (sold mainly for swimming pools). It's not expensive, but the problem is that it often needs to be calibrated, and I don't want to spend my time buying the buffer powder needed for this action. So? I searched and found the pH of the main mineral waters sold in bottles. In France, I buy from time to time some Vittel (one of the most basic to get closer to the target pH range) whose pH is constant at 7.8, and I recalibrate my tester in a glass of Vittel ... before drinking it. This way I hydrate myself, my pH is worthy of the banks of Tanganyika, and I calibrate for cheap.
I think we're done with the subject, next time, I'll talk about automatic water changes. Perhaps.

Have a great! as Ryan would say. (no, it has nothing to do with fish, but I do what I want).